The adidas BW Army Lux "White/Gum" revives the iconic German Army Trainer (GAT) that inspired Maison Margiela's Replica 22 sneaker. This minimalist lifestyle shoe marks adidas' major retail push for a military-issued design originally produced for the West German Bundeswehr in the 1980s-90s.
Design & Inspiration
The German Army Trainer's origins remain somewhat unclear—adidas claims it produced the BW-Sport for the West German Army in the '80s and '90s, though the Bundeswehr History Museum in Dresden only lists PUMA in its records (PUMA denies involvement). After the Berlin Wall fell and Germany unified, surplus GATs flooded the public market. Maison Margiela famously used surplus GATs in its Spring 1999 runway show, later launching the Replica 22 which popularized the design. The BW Army Lux features cracked white leather underlays with footwear white leather quarter, heel, and lace panel overlays. A T-toe cap in white suede adds textural contrast, while plush leather lining and debossed tongue branding maintain the understated aesthetic.
Comfort & Performance
Built for everyday wear rather than athletic performance, the BW Army Lux features a low-profile cupsole construction with gum rubber mid and outsole displaying adidas Trefoil branding. The padded collar and tongue provide comfort, while the cushioned insole supports all-day wear. The flat, minimal silhouette delivers the same clean aesthetic that made the original GAT a favorite among German soldiers. Durable leather construction ensures longevity, while the gum outsole offers reliable traction on various surfaces.
Release Information & Pricing
The adidas BW Army Lux "White/Gum" released April 1, 2025 for $120 USD / €150 / £120. This marks the first major retail push since 2017, following the Samba's success in ushering trim, humble sneakers back into fashion. The black colorway (JH7835) released simultaneously, both featuring the same premium cracked leather construction.